Week 6: Croatia

30 August 2013.
Week 6: 101 Croatians

What do Marco Polo, John Malkovich, Mario Andretti, Eric Bana and the Dalmation dog all have in common? If you connect all the dots, you'll soon discover that they are all Croatian. So are Misho and Tania, who own Restaurant Misho's in the suburb Taringa, 5km southwest from Brisbane's city centre. The suburb is dominated by  a long ridge with steep slopes to either side. The aboriginal word Taringa literally means "place of stones". It is mainly residential, and a popular neighbourhood for students, as it is cycling distance to Queensland University.

Today, about 51 000 Croatians call Australia home. There were essentially 4 waves of migration to Australia: during the 1851 gold rush; resettlement of displaced people after WWII;  during the anti- Croatian sentiment in Yugoslavia in the 1960's/70's, and more recently during the government's "Family Re-union" program. Sense of family is key to the Croatian fabric, which was evident at Misho's, with most tables occupied by large family groups, representing all generations.

I knew very little about Croatia, and even less about their cuisine until last night. Misho and Tania, who have lived in Australia for nearly 50 years, come from the breathtakingly beautiful Dalmatian Coastline on the east coast of Croatia. Tania explained, that there the cuisine is dominated by the abundance of seafood and the Mediterranean influence. There is huge respect for the integrity of the fresh produce, and very little is done to alter its natural flavours.  Most seafood is grilled whole, with minimalist interference (maybe a bit of butter, garlic and parsley).

So, Dobar Tek!

Charcuterie is part of Croatian tradition, and we duly started with a platter of grilled skinless pork sausages washed down with the obligatory Croatian beer. Then I had the signature grilled fish dish, which must rate as one of the best pieces of fish I  have had in a very long time. Our friends Hubie and Lani  shared the Monarski Pijat,  or grilled seafood platter, and Keith ordered the Brudet, the Croatian version of the French Bouillabaise or the Italian Brodetto. It is an impressive fish stew with a delicate fish stock at it's core, around which the layers of flavour are built. The tomato is extremely subtle, and together with the reduced white wine, it adds a fragile acidity that glues the ingredients together. This is usually served with soft polenta.  If this is how they eat in Dalmatia, no wonder the average life expectancy is 75!

But Dalmatia is only one of many regions in Croatia. The mainland food is characterised by contact with its neighbours (Hungary, Austria, Slovenia), and the cuisine is often described as the "cuisine of regions", as it is so varied. Former Yugoslav recipes also feature prominently. Boetie and Nielen both had the Beef Pasticada  (beef larded with bacon, poached in red wine vinegar and port, served with fried gnocchi). And yes, I know they broke rule #3 ( see week1), but sometimes one has to be forgiving.

For dessert the most popular choice was the Rozata (Croatian version of the crème caramel), and I devoured the Palacinke ( crepes with sweet macerated strawberry filling).

If we lived in medieval times, we would have had to trade a couple of kuna (martens) pelts to pay for our meal. As Boetie informed us, the kuna is the national animal ( family of the mink...hence the value of the pelts). Today, it is also the name of the Croatian currency. One Aussie Dollar (at today's exchange rate) converts to 5.1 Kuna, and the agile furry little animal still features on the coins and notes. Fortunately, no blood was spilled, as the modern convenience of the credit card did the job.

We learnt multiple interesting facts about Croatia last night, too many to mention. However, did you know that the necktie is an Croatian invention? It originated in the region Kravata, where wives and girlfriends would tie a narrow scarf around their partner's neck before they went off to war, to remind him of her love. Today over 600 million neckties are worn daily all across the world.

Now we can tick Croatia, and trade our neckties for lederhosen. Yes, next week wir fahren nach Deutschland!

 Croatian crème caramel

Signature grilled fish

Misho's Mornarski Pijat

 Brudet Marko Polo

Week 5: Peru

23 August 2013

If you believe size matters, then Peru is the place for you: it boasts the world's biggest sand dune, deepest canyon, highest navigable lake and longest left hand surf break. Our mission, however, was to size up it's culinary dimensions.

Peruvian Cuisine is shaped by its geography. The coast, the mountains and the jungle. It includes many pre-Inca and Inca staples, and is heavily influenced by the many immigrants (mainly the Spaniards and their African slaves (Moors),  later the Chinese, French and British). We visited "Red and White" in the suburb South Brisbane.  There are only two  restaurants with authentic Peruvian cuisine in Brisbane, and I believe "Red and White" offers a more refined interpretation. Replicating the colours of the flag, the restaurant interior is painted in red and white, with graphics of the mysterious ancient Nazca lines on the walls. The atmosphere is welcoming, with traditional music playing and the flag draped across the desk at the entrance. Now for the food....


To start, I ordered the Ceviche, Peru's national dish: Boneless, skinless, diced raw fish, uniquely cured in lime juice, spices and fresh coriander. It was delicious. Nielen and Boetie shared the chicken Empanada  (Peruvian style pastry), Keith had the Causa Limena (mashed potato with Peruvian yellow chilli, boiled egg and olives). Martina joined us again.....pattern of interloping developing here!.....and had the Pulpo al Olivo (octopus salad), and newcomer Phil skulled the  Leche de Tigre Shot : an aphrodisiac hangover cure of mixed fish and lime juice with aji (yellow chilli) and other magical spices.

For the mains, true to the rules (see week 1) we all ordered something different:  creamy shredded chicken with potatoes (Aji de Gallina),  Peruvian style Paella, beef stirfry (Lomo Saltado), lamb stew (Seco de Cordero), pork casserole (Adobo de Chancho) and a fish stew (Sudado de Pescado).  The spice profile of the food is delicate and subtle, but I am sure one could easily amp it up with a bit more aji.   We shared a bottle of Argentinian red wine, and of course, there were a couple of  imported Peruvian beers.....Nielen now collecting a bottle from each country.

We shared three desserts: Pan Chino Frito essentially a doughnut, Leche asada  Peruvian baked custard, and an incredibly sweet Suspiro a la Limena  with raspberries.


The number of diners in the restaurant from that specific country, is always a good gauge of cultural authenticity. And they were there - not lingering - dining and leaving. About 1000 Peruvians live in Brisbane (roughly 10 000 in Australia). With the immigration laws tightening, most Peruvian migrants today are young people on student visas. And with them they bring  their cultural riches, positive disposition and willingness to integrate. This was underlined by the friendly and efficient service of our young waitress, who has only been in Australia for 3 weeks, studying at one of the local universities.

The evening would not be complete without  the trivia (another rule...see week 1). Keith entertained us with a visual presentation of the pink fresh water dolphins of Peru; Boetie did not disappoint with yet again sharing the national fauna facts; Nielen, true to form, awakened our conscience by stating the poverty and unemployment figures; Martina focused on historical and educational issues, and my introductory paragraph is courtesy of Phil!

Week six will take us to Croatia. Until then, Buen  Provecho!

Empanada

Ceviche

Seco de Cordero

Arroz con Mariscos

Causa Limena

week 4: Poland

16 August 2013:

Week 4: Poland.  Land of the White Eagle

A week has passed, and I am still trying to get rid of the turmeric and paprika stains on my fingers from Ethiopia. But off to Poland we go. Smacznego!

What better place to experience a taste of Poland than the Polish Association of Queensland? There are roughly 58,000 Polish residents in Australia, of which 5,240 live in Brisbane. Most arrived as refugees after WWII and again between 1980 and 1991 as a consequence of the Solidarity Trade Union Movement in Poland and the declaration of martial law.

The Club is situated in the suburb Milton (named after the poet), 2km west of the CBD, home to Suncorp Stadium and the famous XXXX Brewery. Speaking of beer....we did it again (see week 3 blog)! Beer and Wodka are the best possible match for the rich and filling Polish food. Now we are truly living on the edge, as we tried 3 different beers:  Zywiec (7% alcohol), Zamkowe (5.5%) and Warka (7%). We refrained from the Wodka shots, but I can imagine it would act as the perfect digestive.

The cuisine is based around soups, stews, sausages, dumplings and vegetables (which they prefer to cook well).The portions are huge. No wonder the pretty Polish waitress, wearing a colourful traditional apron, gave me a sideways look when we ordered 2 portions of Golabki (cabbage rolls) as a starter to share amongst the 5 of us (Martina joined us last night). Well, that was the end of me, and I could only get halfway through my main, (Flaczki.....tripe soup). Keith had the traditional favourite Pierogi  (Polish dumplings with meat), Boetie had the Kranski (smoked sausages and chips), Nielen ordered the Goulash, and Martina had Bigos, the famous Hunter's stew. Photo's posted below.

The dining hall is upstairs, and it was packed with Polish ex-pats, obviously all knowing each other and having a good time. What surprised me was how young they were (late 20's/30's) . This bodes well for their cultural survival in a world where the lines are becoming increasingly blurred.

We waited nearly an hour for our food to arrive, however, sharing our Polish Facts helped to still the hunger pangs. Let's test your knowledge on some fun facts. True or False?:
1) The most popular name for a dog in Poland is Snoopy. False. It is Burek.
2) There is a dedicated Pope channel in Poland. True (75% of the population is Catholic)
3) Toilet paper is made of paper. False. It is made of crepe,  a very thin cotton fabric.
4) Poland is the only country in the EU with an openly transgender politician in parliament. That's true.

I have never given Poland a second thought as a possible travel destination. Having read more about the place, my curiosity has been awakened, and Warsaw may well be included in our next European visit.

Next stop.....Peru!

 

Kranski

Golabki

Flaczki

pierogi

Goulash and Hunter Stew below.

Week 3: Ethiopia

9 August 2013: Ethiopia - spiritual heartland to the Rastafari Movement.

This week we travelled 7,2 km south of the Brisbane CBD to the suburb Moorooka, the Aboriginal word for "Place where the Iron Bark grows"). Another spin-off of this culinary mission, is that we get to places we would never have considered before.  Moorooka is where the government built housing for returned servicemen after the World Wars, and later it became a hub for resettling refugees from ex-Yugoslavia, the Middle East, and more recently Africa. Today it is home to a huge South-Sudanese, Eritrean and Ethiopian community, and  their colourful culture is evident everywhere.

"Made in Africa: Ethiopian Restaurant"  is located at the back of an arcade lined with retail outlets reflecting the suburb's demographics: a Sudanese Barber, a couple of ethnic shirt shops, a shoe shop, an Arabic café, a shop selling African beauty products ....... It was culturally very far removed from anywhere I would usually find myself on the northern side of the Brisbane River.

Keith and I shared a Kenyan beer (the Ethiopian beer was sold out) and some Sambusas (similar to Indian Samoosas) while we waited for the boys to arrive. We duly noted that it was the first time, in our 20 years of marriage, that we ever had a beer together! Ethiopian music DVD's were playing on a wall-mounted television, and posters of Ethiopia and maps of Africa were randomly pasted on the walls. Next to us was a table with a group of African men enjoying a drink after work, opposite us were three ladies having a night out, a family of four arrived, and soon the 6 tables in the restaurant were filled.

I have accepted a challenge from my friend Teresa to familiarise myself with the language of each nationality we visit. I will endeavour to translate Bon Appetit into the local vernacular (in this case, Amharic): Melkam Megeb!

Our host recommended we share the combination platter to experience the variety of flavours on offer. That was a good call, as we had no idea what to order, nor to expect. Basically you take a piece of injera (Ethiopian flat bread)and scoop up the wot (stew). You eat with your fingers.  There were mild beef and spicy beef, very spicy chicken with hard boiled eggs, mild lentil and hot lentil stew and two vegetable dishes: spinach and a potato/ carrot/cabbage mix. They were all served on a huge round platter that was placed in the centre of the table, and they were all delicious! The food was honest, hearty and healthy.

Being the place that the coffee bean was discovered, we had to end the meal with Ethiopian brewed coffee. Interesting story, the discovery of coffee: a shepherd boy, Kaldi, noticed his flock was behaving a bit odd. On closer investigation, he discovered they were browsing the little black bean from some shrubs growing in the area, and decided to try some himself (as you do when you notice weird behaviour!). The rest is history. Our coffee was served in a traditional clay pot, and poured into small, earless cups. Black, no sugar. Kaldi must have been the most alert shepherd-boy on the horn of Africa. This was perfectly paired with  a semolina and coconut cake.

As a cultural experience, this was our favourite so far.

We could have been anywhere in down-town Johannesburg, except, our car was still there when we left!

Next week....Poland!

Week 1 and 2: India/ Tibet

I deserve a break:

Usually I do not cook on  a Friday night. You may call it "my night off". Make no mistake, I love cooking, and it has always been my foremost objective to offer my family a balanced meal. But we all deserve a break. I am not a fan of take-aways, and often we simply do not feel like going out, so I had to create a bit of interest around my desire to get out of the kitchen. So here's the deal: every Friday night for the next 52 weeks, we shall  be experiencing the food from a different country. From Estonia to Eritrea, we'll track down every possible nation represented on the culinary circuit of Brisbane. The objective is not to be a food critic, but to embrace whatever comes our way.

There are a few rules, of course ( and I have to admit that I do make them up as we travel along...):
No country can be repeated.
The food must be authentic to the culture.
No-one may complain about the food.
Family attendance is obligatory. Friends welcome.
BYO is preferred.
Each family member should arrive armed with at least two unusual facts about the country.
No franchises or restaurant chains ( family owned, hidden gems are what we are looking for)
We may not travel more than 20 minutes from the CBD to the restaurant.

I thought it was going to be a daunting task, however, the first 32 weeks are already mapped out.
So take an ant-acid, and join us on a cultural culinary expedition for the next 52 weeks!

Week 1) India
This one was easy, I thought. Every suburb has an Indian restaurant. But to find one where the sauces are not all made at a central depot and then dispatched to the different outlets was a bit more tricky.
To  truly appreciate the complexity of the delicate spice combinations also means we all have to order different dishes (new rule). It is not easy to differentiate between your  Madras and your Bhoona, your Subji and your Karma, but we gave it a go! Sky Indian in Auchenflower ticked all the boxes. The food was delicious, and the service was efficient.  Fortunately the boys were all in good spirit, which makes it so much easier to enjoy the evening......
One down, 51 to go!

Week 2) Tibet
The weekly themed outing is starting to gain momentum. All have their facts handy, and it contributes to the enjoyment of the evening. National animals,  quirky rituals, weird lunar cycles, analysis of the flag....all lead to extended interpretations. No ipod, iphones, headphones (new rule).

This week we ended up at The Tibetan Kitchen in Spring Hill. We had a huge corner table with a "lazy susan" in the centre already stacked with cutlery and glasses. Keith is quite tall (and for that matter, the boys are as well) , so he found it difficult to sit, as we were on cushions and had no sunken pit for our legs. One can sit cross-legged for only so long, and we did end up fighting for leg-room under the table. But it added to the cultural experience, and that is after all what it is all about.
Bordering India, there appears to be some culinary contamination, but that did not bother us. Hot in Tibet proved to be much hotter than in India. We thought it might be prudent to explore at least one vegetarian option and the Churipi curry did not disappoint. We steered away from fermented Yak milk, and even though we all opted for medium or mildly spiced dishes, the tastebuds struggled with sensory overload (maybe the Yak milk would have solved the problem!)

Next week we are off to Ethiopia.