Week 46: Denmark

Week 46: There's nothing rotten in the state of Denmark.


In fact, things couldn't be better. The Kingdom of Denmark is considered to be the worlds most democratic and least corrupt country, it has the world's highest income equality, level of well-being and life expectancy, and the Danes are consistently ranked as the world's happiest people. And of course, it has the world's best restaurant. Noma, a portmanteau of Nodisk (Nordic) and Mad (food in Danish), has been awarded this prestigious title in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014 (not quite sure what happened in 2013...).
Situated in a stripped-back warehouse on the Copenhagen Dockside, Noma serves "mould-breaking Nordic food that takes natures bounty to a new level....food that makes you glad to be alive" (judge's comment, 50 Best Restaurants in the World). The cuisine is intrinsically linked to the Nordic terroir, and a re-invention and interpretation of the everyday food that the Danes love to eat.


Mealtime is very important to Danish families, as it contributes to their sense of well-being (hygge). They would typically have 3 meals a day: a cold breakfast of rye bread, cheese and jam/ a cold lunch (smorrebrod) consisting of rye bread, cold meats or smoked salmon,  liver paste, cucumber and tomato, hard boiled egg and curried pickles/ and a hot dinner which may include frikadeller (meat balls), sausages, roast pork or poached cod. Denmark has a reputation of excellence when it comes to butter and cheese (think Havarti and Danish Blue). They excel in the fine art of pastry-making (what we refer to as Danish pastries, they call Wienerbrod). And they love pork (Danes eat the most pork per capita in the world).


Last night we had dinner at The Danish Club, situated on Austin Street in Newstead (3km north of the CBD). The suburb's trendy cafes and upmarket studio apartments belie its industrial past. Conveniently located on the northern bank of the Brisbane River, it once was home to timber yards, asbestos factories and wool stores, as well as Brisbane's gasworks. Today Newstead is one of the more expensive areas to purchase property in Brisbane.


There are 62,014 Danes who call Australia home, and according to Soren (Club President), about 5000 live in Brisbane. I would estimate there were about 90 enjoying the traditional Smorrebrod  at the club last night. On arrival, we made ourselves comfortable at our reserved table with a couple of Carlsberg and Tuborg beers. Fact-sharing flowed freely (see blog week 1 regarding Friday Night Out Rules). It wasn't long before a queue formed at the food counter, snaking all the way to the back of the hall. Not wanting to miss out on whatever was on offer, we fell in line. What we discovered, was the renaissance of the open sandwich. Dark rye bread with a variety of mouth watering toppings:
smoked salmon with thinly sliced red onion and capers; crumbed and fried fish fillets with remoulade and lemon; roast pork with crackling, red cabbage and a slice of orange; rare roast beef with remoulade and onions; rolled and spiced pork belly; liver paste; crispy bacon, boiled egg, Danish salami, Esrom (stinky cheese) and more. The food was delicious, the beer was cold, and one could even do some shopping - does it get any better? The Danish butcher was selling a selection of premium meat products and smallgoods, Britt's Organic Bakery was there with a variety of pastries, bread and biscuits, and one could also buy imported Danish liquorice. A festive atmosphere was created by the lucky draw (9 prizes in total, with Phil and Martina both walking away as winners!), and Greg at one stage offering that he was having a ridiculous amount of fun.


So what did we learn from each other about Denmark? Martina informed us that there is no word for please in Danish;  Keith had numerous facts about Lego (there is a lot to say about these little building blocks  - a company worth $15 billion).We also talked bout Jorn Utzon, the architect of the iconic and Heritage Listed Sydney Opera House with its geometrically undefined curves (and how he never saw the finished building). There were facts about Hans Christian Andersen and The Ugly Duckling and the national animal, the Mute Swan. And how could we not mention our very own fairy tale: Australian born Mary MacDonald met Crown Prince Frederik in a pub during the Sydney Olympics in 2000 (can you image that introduction.....), and turned into a beautiful princess. Greg praised the virtues of Danish nannies; and Phil threw me a red herring: he told us that the famous 1967 hit Zabadak by Dave Dee, Dozy, Beaky, Mick and Tich mentioned the Skagerrak Strait in its lyrics. So here I am this morning, looking at Youtube footage of this song, only to discover that the words are gibberish, and they actually say skagalak ( to rhyme with zabadak, I assume) -  and surely the last thing on Dave Dee's mind when writing the song was the body of water between Denmark and Sweden.....


So where do we go from here....ever been to Laos?




   


   

Week 45: Colombia

Week 45: Colombia - the lungs of our planet


We may well have stumbled across the world's best kept secret. When it comes to diversity of landscape and wildlife, look no further. From snow-capped volcanoes, rocky deserts, endless plains, alpine lakes and dense jungle to two toed sloths, hummingbirds, capybaras, jaguars and harlequin frogs...Colombia is considered to be the most prolific biosphere on earth. Having suffered a terrible reputation of crime and violence, Colombia has cleaned up its act, and is very proud of the huge progress they have made in stabilising their country socially, economically and politically.


If you need further testament to the wealth of wildlife, then look up. Colombia has the largest bird list in the world, with 1872 species of avifauna filling their sky. And if bird-watching is not your thing, intellectual Bogota ( the capital) will oblige: cutting-edge art, experimental theatre, vibrant Latin music scene  and of course food. Colombian cuisine is a blend of European and native ingredients. It is extremely diverse, and most people would not know what the traditional food of Colombia encompasses. It varies greatly from northeast to southwest, but one thing is for certain - they love meat, and lots of it. Many consider Bandeja Paisa to be the national dish - a platter filled with steak, pork crackling and chorizo sausages, accompanied by beans, rice, avocado and sweet banana chips, topped off with a fried egg....not for the faint-hearted. Another speciality is Lechona - a whole pig, stuffed with rice, peas, onions and spices, then roasted in a clay oven for 10 hours. And if you prefer to indulge in a local phenomenon, try the Hormigas Culonas (queen ants - wings and legs removed, soaked in salt water, then roasted - literally translated: big ass-ants). Arepa is a cornmeal bread served with every main meal, and for snacking, you can't go past a delicious, stuffed and fried (as opposed to baked in most other South-American countries ) Empanada.


To experience the taste of Colombia, we travelled to Woolloongabba,  2km south of the CBD (see suburb history and profile week 9: France) to Evo Colombian Restaurant. Brothers Sam, Luis and Carlos fulfilled a lifelong dream when they opened Evo. Mum Teresa lends a helping hand in the kitchen, bringing the traditional flavours of her homeland to every dish. Que aproveche! Last night was terribly windy and very cold, so the blankets draped over the back of each chair came in very handy (albeit that we sat inside). Friday night is Tapas night. Showcasing the strong Spanish connection with a Colombian touch, the seven of us ordered a selection of share-plates: Empanadas (stuffed with potato and herbs), chorizo sausages in red wine, garlic infused mushrooms, salty fried king prawns, baby octopus, and a vegetarian paella. This went down well with some Colombian beer and a couple of glasses of red wine. For a more authentic experience, rather visit Evo on a Sunday, when they serve a full Colombian feast. There are just over 21,000 Colombians living in Australia - the largest group of immigrants from South America- most settling here during the troubled times experienced in Colombia in the 1980's. Unlike other countries in the region, the Colombians who move to Australia are mostly urban and educated (part of the significant brain-drain of the country). Many of them choose Brisbane, and this Sunday (20 July) will see the first Colombian Independence Day Festival in Fortitude Valley when food, drink, music, salsa and cumbia will bring Carnival to town.

No Friday Night Out is complete without the sharing of facts - and there were many. The biodiversity was discussed at length. Colombia (named after its founder, Christopher Columbus) has over 162 species of Hummingbirds ( the only bird that can fly backwards), the Andean Condor is the national animal, and the capybara is a barrel-shaped, giant, semi-aquatic rodent that lives on the river banks. We discussed the building and cost of the Panama Canal, and the proposed Colombia-China joint venture to build a rail alternative to boost trade. We touched on the legendary lost city of gold, El Dorado, and briefly mentioned the coffee trade. A positive story, is that Colombia is no longer the world's largest producer of cocaine. This title now belongs to Peru. And Jane concluded with a few Colombian rules of social engagement : eye contact, handshakes and family history - all very important preambles to a meaningful meeting ( probably to determine on which side of the thin white line your allegiance lies, we decided....).

And how can we conclude Colombia without mentioning the most significant revelation of the World Cup Football: James (pronounce HAHM-ez) Rodrigues - the new pin-up boy of soccer.  With a kiss on both cheeks from our delightful young waiter Rodolfo, we departed filled with Latin-American cheer.

We say farewell to Andrew and Jane, who return to South Australia after joining us on four of our culinary expeditions. Adios!

And we welcome the prospect of travelling to our first (and only) Scandinavian destination - next week we'll see  you in Denmark !


    
   


 James Rodriquez

capybara

Week 44: Cuba

Week 44: Che, Castro, coffee and cigars.


These topics dominated discussion on Friday morning. Yes, slight tweaking of the FNO rules (see blog week 1). As our Cuban destination only opens its door weekdays from 7am until 2pm,  we had no choice.


But first, allow me to tell you more about Cuban cuisine. More mild than wild, traditional Cuban dishes rely on muted spices and extended simmering to build flavour. Hot chilies are eschewed for milder spices like cumin, cinnamon, bay leaf and oreganum.  Beef and pork are the preferred meats, and being an island nation it is obvious why seafood features prominently.  Christopher Columbus arrived on Cuban shores in 1492. He brought with him the flavours of Seville - oranges and lemons, as well as rice and vegetables. With perfect conditions to cultivate sugarcane, African slaves were imported to work the plantations. The fusion of Spanish and African cultures form the backbone of Cuban cuisine, with Black Bean and Rice Stews, known as Moros y Cristianos ( Moors and Christians) typifying the unification. Crucial to just about every dish is the addition of olive oil, sour orange juice, onions, cumin and paprika - a sauce called mojo. And without the mojo, a dish would lack the necessary balance in flavour that gives the food its charm.


However, I cannot expand on whether Cuban cuisine has lost its mojo, as our breakfast destination focussed on the sweet essence of Cuban coffee and cigars (without doubt the two most important food groups in Cuba....). Paladar Espresso Bar and Fumior Salon on Merrivale Street in South Brisbane brings a little bit of Cuba to the heart of Brisbane. From it's welcoming revolutionary red exterior to the collection of eclectic curios inside, it is an espresso bar like no other. The flavours and sounds of Havana fill the tiny shop, with purveyor Filip (always ready for a chat) barely visible behind the counter stacked with memorabilia, cookie jars and the espresso machine. To the back of Paladar is a cosy courtyard, should you wish to have your coffee there. If you take the stairs to the sunny rooftop terrace, you may complement your cafe cubano with the peppery, leathery, toasty, woody, chestnutty or earthy flavours of an imported Habana cigar.


Prior to the Castro-era, coffee production flourished, and Cuban coffee accounted for a huge percentage of the country's export revenue. Economic disaster struck in 1959 (when coffee production was at its peak) as the Marxist revolution swept Castro into power and started to confiscate farms and nationalise all industries. Today coffee accounts for only 1 % of all Cuban exports.


On the other hand, Cuban cigars are one of the country's top exports. It dominates the world cigar market with 70% of the sales. This jealously guarded market share excludes the United States, where Cuba's cigars are banned under a decades-old trade embargo against the Communist Island.


The dexterous fingers of Cuba's cigar makers rolled out 81.5 million of the much sought-after smokes last year, with demand being driven by the Chinese market.  We selected two cigars from Filip's extensive collection and were issued with a cutter to cut the head and butane torch to ignite the foot - one slightly sweet, and the second quite nutty. When in Cuba.....


With the strong, dark, concentrated coffee-bean extract acting as the octane to fuel our day, the sharing of facts began pretty much from the get-go: Che Guevara, Fidel Castro, The Bay of Pigs, The Cuban Missile Crisis, Guantanamo Bay  -  politics again predominating discussion. Myths were expelled (no, Cuban cigars are not rolled on a virgin's thigh) and hoodoo explained (a folk spirituality with the belief that human well-being is governed by spiritual balance, and the use of charms to embody spiritual power....not to be confused with voodoo from Haiti). And somehow it was even possible to include some celebrity gossip: Beyoncé and Jay-Z caused a media frenzy with their recent trip to Cuba despite the US-Cuban travel and trade embargo (imposed by JKF 52 years ago, and re-affirmed by the Obama administration in May 2014). Obama had the chance to take a slick jab at Jay-Z at the annual White House Correspondent's Dinner.  Talking about issues that he has to deal with that are out of his control, Obama said, "It's unbelievable... I have 99 problems and now Jay-Z is one of them." Interestingly enough, the President does not appear to be as concerned about Beyoncé.....


This Friday was definitely more of a cultural than a culinary experience, one all eight of us wholeheartedly embraced. Next Friday all will revert to normal, as we investigate the tastes of Colombia.
  Filip the owner of Paladar
  Louise looking quite accomplished

Week 43: Iran

Week 43: The cradle of civilisation.


I am puzzled (as Andrew would say). Why is there so much conflict, violence and intolerance in this region that is the cradle of our civilisation? It is for this very reason that Farideh (Fay) and her family sought refuge in Australia 33 years ago. Today there are just over 70,000 Iranians living in Australia.  Fay met her American husband of 29 years (an award winning composer/concert jazz guitarist) in Cairns , and it is he who encouraged her to share her incredible flair with her native cuisine with the dining public of Brisbane. Zafron on Brunswick opened in 2007 and has established a reputation for quality, providing guests with a variety of Persian dishes  - both traditional and some with a modern euro twist.


Although often lumped in the category Middle Eastern Cuisine, Iranian food stands apart when it comes to the unique ability to contrast flavours. They are particularly adept at balancing sweet and sour, using pomegranate syrup, dried limes and quinces to achieve the desired result. The Iranian meal is built around rice (bernej) - often a plate stacked with chelo (plain cooked rice) or polo (rice cooked with several ingredients)  topped with vegetables, fish or meat. Herbs and spices like saffron, cinnamon and parsley add a refined definition to the flavours of Iran. Nuts, raisins, plums, apricots and yoghurt add texture, sweetness and balance to the often spicy toppings. There are over 40 different types of bread in Iran, from crisp to limp, and at least one type of bread will accompany every meal. Befarma'id!


Six of us had dinner (shaam) at Zafron in New Farm on Friday night. We started with two platters to share. The Persian Dip Platter: three dips( eggplant, garlic and tomato/  spinach yoghurt and pine nuts/  olives, walnuts and feta) served with fried lavash crisps and hot Turkish bread; and the Mediterranean Dip Platter (artichoke, fig, crushed almonds/ roasted capsicum, macadamia, yoghurt / and tahini with roasted garlic). These dips were all interesting, different and delicious. True to Friday-Night-Out Rules, we all had a different main: Andrew ordered the Fesenjan (stewed chicken pieces, slow-cooked with walnuts and pomegranate molasses, served with saffron rice and yoghurt); Jane really enjoyed her vegetarian tagine with a Moroccan touch; Keith had the

Khoresht–i-Shirazi ( Fay's own stew of authentic Persian Spices, potato, eggplant and carrots with yoghurt and crushed pistachios and cashews, served with Saffron Rice ); Boetie had the Chelo Kebab (traditional kebabs char-grilled over the in-house BBQ served with saffron rice, yoghurt and Shirazi salad); Nielen opted for the Khoresht-i-gormeh Sabzi (Persian stew of slow-cooked lamb, Borlotti beans, dried limes and blended herbs served with saffron rice and Mostakhiar yoghurt) and I absolutely loved my Polo ( a rice pilaf with almonds, raisins and bite-size meatballs served with Mostakhiar yoghurt). Jane and I concluded our meal with some Persian tea. All this while listening to soothing jazz guitar recorded by Fay's husband, Michael, playing as background music in the restaurant.  I have to agree that the food is fundamentally different to the other Levantine cuisines that we have tasted. It definitely had an element of refinement which elevated the meal from its apparent basic ingredients into one of sophistication. A cuisine worthy of further investigation.

Jane had first go with facts on Friday ( seeing that she never had her say in Sri Lanka....) and came prepared with 65 of them! One of which is that the official name of Iran is the Islamic Republic of Iran. It became an Islamic republic in 1979 when the monarchy was overthrown and religious clerics assumed political power under the supreme leader Ayatollah Khomeini. Andrew explained the qanat water supply system; Nielen turned our attention to the horrific air pollution in Teheran, and stated that on average 27 people die each day due to related causes. Keith expanded on another fact by Andrew, that all Persian rugs are purposely made with a defect. We talked quite a bit about Persian rugs, Iranian caviar and the Caspian Sea. Did you know that the Caspian Sea is situated at 28m below sea level (-28m), it is completely land locked, is endorheic (has no outflow), and is fed by over 130 rivers? And lastly Boetie analysed the flag:  Known as the ‘Three Colour Flag’ ( green/white/red), the flag of Iran was officially adopted on July 29, 1980.  To the bottom of the green band and top of the red band the takbir is written twenty-two times in the Kufic script. The takbir reads the phrase Allahu Akbar which translates into “God is greater than can be described.” The number twenty-two is significant as it refers to the Islamic Revolution that occurred on the twenty-second day of the eleventh month of the Iranian calendar. 

It is always best to steer clear of discussing politics and religion over dinner, but with Iran it is impossible. Hopefully we'll be able to sidestep these topics in Cuba next week. With a coffee, cognac and cigar in hand, I somehow doubt it. Castro and cults may well be on the menu.........