Week 9: France Haven for Food and Wine Enthusiasts
We've been to some interesting places, and experienced extraordinary dishes, however I have been yearning for something familiar. Flavours that sit more comfortably on my palate. Ingredients that resonate with my desire to satisfy my senses. Food one can enjoy, not because you are hungry, but because it is masterfully prepared, artistically presented and offers somewhat of an intellectual challenge. And most of all, food that can be seamlessly complemented and enhanced by wine. What better place to go than France.
The foundation of French cooking is technique. Whether you are preparing a mirepoix as base flavours for your bouilion, deglazing the pan for a rich jus, barding or larding a beautiful cut of meat or simply whisking and folding eggwhites to produce a fluffy soufflé, it requires some degree of skill and an understanding of what it is you are trying to achieve. To the French, the process is as important as the end result. And so are the ingredients. In France, every road leads to splendid food. Just think of the chickens from Bresse, the butter from Normandy, the Grenoble walnuts and Dijon mustard. Fundamentally, France is regionally based cuisine. Food is produced where conditions are best suited for premium quality. The concept of terroir applies as much to food as it does to wine.
If you want to eat your way through France, then C'est Bon is a good place to start.
This gorgeous little French restaurant is tucked away in the suburb Woolloongabba, 4km south of the Brisbane CBD. Woolloongabba means "fight talk place" in aboriginal language....maybe that is why Australia's famous cricket ground, The Gabba, was built here! There was no fighting talk last night, as we were transported to food heaven. From the complimentary amuse-bouche (feather light choux pastry with a gruyere filling) on arrival, to the crepe suzettes to conclude, the meal was authentically French. As is the interior, with red leather bistro-style benches, frosted glass panels for privacy, glistening chandeliers, crisp white tablecloths, crystal wine glasses and charming French waiting staff. Already I felt right at home. Bon appetite!
As a starter, I ordered the soupe a l'oignon, hidden under the most perfect puff pastry crust, followed by the lapin aux figues, surely the most delicious rabbit casserole I have ever tasted. Nielen had the ravioli de fruit de mer ( a mixed seafood soufflé encased in pasta sheets, topped with a lobster cognac sauce) and then canard l'orange. Boetie started with 6 escargot in a garlic and parsley sauce, followed by Coq au Riesling ( a clever white wine coq au vin). Keith loved his presse de tomate (confit of tomatoes, basil, caramelised onions, tapenade and spinach with a drizzle of basil oil) and then broke the "Friday Night Out" rules (see week 1 blog) by also ordering the rabbit. Phil and Matrina shared the evening with us, and I honestly cannot remember what they had, but it looked delicious! At this stage of the evening, after a bottle of Louis Roederer and an elegant Santenay pulsating through my ancestral Huguenot blood, I was simply sitting back and quietly praising the French for all things French.
There is a lot to praise the French for: cinematography (the first ever screening of a film was in Paris on 28 Dec 1895), the taxi ( the first taxi was in Paris, 1640), the bicycle (1864), the scooter (1902) and the helicopter (1907), the spirit-level (1661) dry-cleaning and the hair-dryer.... to name but a few.
We also learnt that it is illegal in France to name a pig "Napoleon" ; that the face of the Statue of Liberty is modelled after the sculptor's mother; and in 1685, Louis XIV decreed "The length of handkerchiefs shall equal their width throughout my Kingdom", and that is why all handkerchiefs are square.
The most alarming fact about France (now, this one I cannot fathom, given the fact that they have all things French), is that 25% of the population take tranquilizers. Another glass of wine, rather?
I look forward to visiting C'est Bon again. But that will have to wait another 42 weeks, as we work our way through the culinary diversity of Brisbane. Next week: Malaysia
(Note: Owner/Chef of C'est Bon , Michel Bonnet, originally from Burgundy, recently published a new book: "A Million Meals A Million Miles". Worth having.)
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