Former Australian Prime Minister, Bob Hawke, noted that "apart from Ireland, Australia is more Irish than any other country", with 30% of Australia's population having some link to Irish ancestry. Between 1791 and 1867 more than 50,000 Irish convicts were sent to Australia, and during the Great Famine (1845 - 1850) diseased and impoverished Irish were shipped to the colony, amongst them 4,000 orphans. The 2013 immigration figures show that more Irish than ever before (42,000 from 2011 to 2013) are swapping the economic gloom of Ireland (still struggling to recover after the GFC) for the prosperous shores of Australia. Today over 2 million people (10% of our population) identify themselves as Irish, not Australian.
Centuries of social and political change shaped the Irish cuisine. The potato was introduced to Ireland in the 16th century. The temperate climate and fertile soils delivered healthy crops and became a reliable and affordable source of nutrition. As the base food for the poor, the devastation caused by the potato blight (destroying two-thirds of the crop) led to the Gorta Mor 1845-1850 (directly translated "the great hunger" ) . This drew a dividing line in the historical narrative of the Irish. Over one million people died, and a further million emigrated, reducing the Irish population by more than 25%.
However, last night starvation was the last thing on our minds as we indulged in the pleasure of hearty pub food at Mick O'Malley's Irish Pub. Before we were allowed entrance, the huge security guards at the door (could well have been one of the All Black props) asked for Boetie's ID ( still under 18....), but nevertheless let him enter with his very respectable looking parents! Flanked by the Hilton Hotel and the heritage listed Regent Cinema Palace on either side, I have often passed the big emerald green front door of Mick O'Malley's, but had absolutely no idea that behind the guarded entrance, deep in the catacombs of the Wintergarden Centre, lies a haven for those who subscribe to the subculture of pubbing. The place is huge, but because of all the structural support ( being underground), it resembles a maze. Clad in beautiful dark wood, with solid timber bar counters, and heavy furniture, it has a traditional pub feel: a stage with two guys singing Damien Rice songs(one playing the guitar, the other an electric violin), TV screens on every possible wall, screening recorded Irish rugby matches, framed sporting memorabilia, and every imaginable beer on tap! At the counter, we asked to open a tab for the night, which resulted in me having to hand over my credit card and driver's license in return for an ordering number. I ordered a Tullamore Dew on ice, Boetie and Martina had something soft, Phil had a Guinness, and Keith, wanting to explore the subtleties of Irish Whiskey, was pointed in the direction of a dedicated whiskey bar in a separate room. This is where we eventually ended up having our dinner. As much as we enjoyed the renditions of Damien Rice, and the typical noise of pub-goers trying to make themselves heard over the music, the quieter Whiskey bar beckoned.
Irish whiskey used to be the most popular spirit in the world, but now there are only 7 distilleries left (as opposed to Scotland with 105). Irish whiskey has a much smoother palate structure, as they do not use peat in the malting process ( peat gives it that typical smoky/earthy character), and it is pot distilled three times (the Scottish distil only twice). The knowledgeable Irish barman keenly shared his wisdom and passion, with Keith finally settling for the Redbreast 12 Year Old Irish Whiskey. Redbreast is considered to be the quintessential example of premium Irish Whiskey, and the purest form of the art. (I have to admit, it had a beautiful rich complexity with an appealing hint of creaminess on the finish....might just have to go and get a bottle!)
To mitigate the effect of this delectable distillate, we ordered Kilkenny Beer Battered Fish with mushy peas, Bangers and Mash, Irish Stew, Steak and Guinness Pie and Stuffed Mushrooms. The portions were generous, and tasty...with only one disappointment: there were no mashed potatoes...... No mash! What is a banger without mash, I ask!
Nevertheless (honestly...no mash!), there were plenty of facts (see blogs week 1 and 19 regarding the rules for Friday-night-out-Facts): Shannon Airport is the westernmost runway of Europe, and became an essential re-fuelling stop for transatlantic flights and in 1947, it introduced the first ever duty-free shopping; Ireland is a snake-free island; the national animals are the wolf-hound and the stag; the average height of an Irish man is 5"7; 90% of Irish are Catholic, and divorce was made legal only in 1992; and the origin of Irish Luck is unclear, except that it may relate to them having greater success at staking a profitable claim during the gold rush era.
After Czechoslovakians, the Irish consume the most beer in the world, with 131 litres per person per year. So, one night, Mrs McMillen answers the door to see her husband's best friend standing on the doorstep, "Hello Paddy, but where is my husband? Didn't he go with you to the beer factory?" Paddy nodded, "Ah Mrs McMillen, there was a terrible accident. Your husband fell into a vat of Guinness stout and drowned". Mrs McMillen starts to cry, "Oh, don't tell me that, did he at least go quickly?" Paddy shakes his head, "No, not really Mrs McMillen - he got out 3 times to pee!"
one more...
Billy stops Paddy in Dublin and asks for the quickest way to Cork,
Paddy says, "are you on foot or in a car?"
Billy says, "In a car."
Paddy says, "that's the quickest way."
Next week, we are off to Italy!
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