Who would have thought that China is causing such a political kerfuffle over an island they once referred to as "a ball of mud beyond the sea". Taiwan did not even appear on the imperial map of the Qing Dynasty (1683). The insults continued: "Island of Dogs", "...the size of a pellet, taking it is no gain, not taking it is no loss", and "...adding nothing to the breadth of China", they even advocated to move all the Chinese to mainland China, abandoning the island. Now they want it back.
The political situation is quite confusing: After a civil war between the Nationalist forces of the Republic of China and the Communist Party of China that commenced in 1927, two de facto states emerged: The People's Republic of China on the mainland (see blog week 12), and The Republic of China on the island Taiwan (and some surrounding islands). No-one is really sure if the war ever actually ended (a peace-treaty has never been signed), but active battle ceased in 1949. Chiang-Kai-shek and 2 million Nationalists retreated to the Island of Taiwan. Mainland Communist China still views Taiwan as its territory, and threatens military invasion should Taiwan declare independence and change its name to The Republic of Taiwan. In the meantime, Taiwan has it's own nationalist government, president, military forces and flag.
My mother and I visited Taiwan in 1980. About the same time when everything was Made in Taiwan. All I can recall is that it was permanently cloudy, terribly hot and stiflingly humid, but it was beautiful. No wonder the Portuguese sailors named it Formosa (Beautiful Island). With lofty mountains, remote beaches, shrines and temples and bustling cities, it resembles a snapshot of the world on an island the size of Belgium....but with 23 million people (equivalent to the entire population of Australia)! Taipei (the capital) is famous for its night markets where food is the main attraction. Foodies from all over the world travel to Taipei for one purpose only: to experience authentic xiaochi (street food). This style of eating (similar to Spanish tapas or middle-eastern meze) forms an important part of Taiwanese cuisine.
The food in Taiwan is heavily influenced by the cuisine form the southern provinces of mainland China, its climate (an abundance of tropical fruits: papayas, melons, star fruit and citrus) and the fact that it is an island (surrounded by oceans filled with fish: tuna, groper, sardines, anchovies and squid). There is also a notable Japanese influence, a legacy of Japanese rule from 1895 to 1945. The Taiwanese show their creativity through their spice selection and seasoning techniques: soy sauce, rice wine and sesame oil act as the glue that binds all the flavours together. Pork, seafood and chicken dominate menus. Beef is not common, apart from Beef Noodle Soup, which is one of the most popular dishes in Taiwan, so that is what I had to order.
Me, my two sons and Phil and Martina were transported to a different world last night. At the back of an industrial-looking building, in an under-lit side street, away from the hustle of China-Central in Sunnybank Market Square (see blog week 18), we discovered a little bit of Taiwan and the blossoming Taiwanese sub-culture in Brisbane. Take the door to the right of the Taiwanese grocer, climb two flights of stairs and turn left. A short passage will lead you into a food court like no other in Brisbane, with at least ten different vendors selling traditional Taiwanese meals. We felt (and appeared!) a bit lost as nothing is signed in English. We took a seat and scanned our surrounds. A young trendy couple was seated opposite us. We asked him what he ordered, as it looked delicious and unusual. In manageable English he explained that it was a typical Taiwanese meal and pointed in the direction of the vendor. A woman and a young boy were sitting next to us, struggling to understand our interest in her bowl of noodles. That was the Beef Noodle Soup I had to have. I asked her where she ordered it from. After consulting her son in Mandarin, the boy answered in English and directed me to the kitchen in question. Boetie, Nielen and Phil all had different chicken dishes and Martina had the Kung Pao Spicy Fish. Everything was served with rice and pickles on the side. My Beef Noodle Soup lived up to expectation: paper thin shavings of beef, shallots and kimchi gently simmered in a delicate broth with just the right amount of spice, perfectly balanced with a zingy acidity, and enough noodles to feed a small family. We all agreed that it was the best meal for $10 one could have anywhere in Brisbane.
The number of post-1949 Taiwanese migrants to Australia exceed 24,000. Brisbane remains the top Taiwanese settling city with Sydney and Melbourne coming in close. The number of Taiwanese people in Brisbane vastly surpasses those from Japan, Vietnam, Hong Kong, People's Republic of China, Korea and Singapore. This was evident last night.
While enjoying our meal in the Little Taipei Food Court, we discussed many interesting facts about this island with its fragile political climate. Martina advised us that Taiwan has the lowest birth-rate in the world. The flag and the national animal (Blue Magpie or Long-tailed Mountain Lady) were discussed by Boetie. Phil quoted from Sherlock Holmes ( "what do you know, pray, of Tapanuli fever? What do you know of Black Formosa corruption?"). And Nielen's contribution was that one of his best friends is Taiwanese. That's it. That was his fact.
We could not leave without trying Bubble Tea, invented in Taiwan during the 1980's. Also known as Pearl Tea or Boba Milk Tea, the name "bubble" is Anglicized slang for Boba,which refers to the chewy tapioca balls or pearls added to the ice-blended milky tea-shake. Will I have it again?....not so sure.
Time to jump continents. Next week you'll find us in Bolivia!
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